Wanderlust

Should you find yourself at your flight gate, traveling alone, to a country notorious for violence, crime, and treating women poorly, a moment of hesitation means you're doing things right.  Once you embrace the reaction for what it is - just fear - its time to go. Put on your big girl hat, listen to your funky playlist, and get on the plane. You've got this, all on your own. But if you don't, go for it anyway knowing that there's always people to help, send money, or bail you out of Papua New Guinean prison. 

In PNG the cities are a bit dirty and dangerous, and especially daunting for a young lady traveling by herself. I always employ my Dad's “Look like you know where you're going” approach to seem like a local, but there's only so much you can do about being the only sweaty, blonde, white lady whose a foot taller than everyone in the airport. I think the politically correct way to put this is, my favorite part of Port Moresby was my flight in.

On arrival in Madang where I met my new boss, Barbara, the tension melted away a bit. Its amazing how beer, food, and a place to sleep makes all the anxiety go away. Man, Australia rubbed off on me.

The next day we headed by speedboat to Karkar Island, the location of the plantation owned by the family I'm now working for. Before I had left, my Dad and I tried looking at Karkar on Google Earth to see what we could see, but we had a hard time finding the villages that I'd heard about.

It didn't take long to figure out why.

The majority of the ~60,000 people on Karkar live in these villages made of nothing more than grass huts, without running water or electricity. There are a couple clinics, hospitals, and schools with a bit sturdier infrastructure scattered around. The only Western style homes are those on the plantations, of which there are about half a dozen on the island.

The family lives in a sort of fenced in compound with 3 houses, manicured lawns, and private beach access. I have a completely modern cottage inside the fence with a big bathroom, fans in every room, internet, and a fridge full of healthy foods (rice and beer).

Its really my first experience with a class system. I by no means feel superior, but the division is just part of the culture.  I'm currently learning Pidgin and hoping that speaking with locals in their language might open things up a bit. And for everyone watching from home whose been a bit worried, know that my daily activities are planned by navigating what is and isn't safe *sigh of relief*.

In the midst of all the craziness of my first week here, I received the unfortunate news that my grandfather passed away. He wrote extensively about having the Wanderlust when he was young, an inherited trait I reckon. I don't really believe in heaven, but he did which is what matters. It's probably got more women to flirt with than a nursing home or a hospital bed, and at the very least, it makes me happy to know that from up there he can watch his granddaughter on an adventure like his.